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Madly delicious: Down the Rabbit Rabbit hole on Vancouver Island

Going down the rabbit hole should be an experience. It should be something that promises whimsy and delight. That’s exactly what you’ll find at Rabbit Rabbit. Inspired by the metaphor of falling down the rabbit hole, Rabbit Rabbit is a Victoria wine bar and restaurant with an Alice in Wonderland twist. Located at 658 Herald St., the intimate space – about 760 square feet of dining room – packs a memorable punch. The branding was thoughtfully designed by Glasfurd and Walker and brought to life under the guidance of first-time restaurateur and owner, Sydney Cooper. But beyond the pops of bold art and the quirky details (like a painted red chandelier and the rabbit motif tastefully scattered throughout), the approach to food and wine is where the real adventure lies. Chef Billy Nguyen came on board when it opened last fall and has helped bring notoriety to the establishment, notably with Rabbit Rabbit recently listed as a finalist for Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2025. Billy was also the runner-up on Top Chef Canada’s ninth season, competing alongside chef Andrea Alridge, now at Janevca (also a finalist for best new restaurant). But while Billy often felt misunderstood during most of his cooking career due to his flair for out-of-the-ordinary ideas, he says he’s found his place. “Sometimes you have people doubt you so much growing up – and your creativity – and it’s incredible that now people get to eat what goes on in my mind.” Billy is grateful to be given the freedom to let his creativity run wild. “Sydney said to me, ‘Do whatever you want.’” Though trust in one another developed over time, Billy and Sydney said they found kindred spirits in each other when introduced through a friend, James Langford-Smith of Pamplemousse Jus, who acted as a front of house consultant. Both had been through major career changes in their lives. Sydney was previously a policy analyst who did a full 180 to become a restaurateur after her now-husband introduced her to the world of wine at age 40; Billy had been in architecture school. Together, they were ready to create something novel and different. “I felt as though embarking on this huge project, which neither one of us had taken on before, was a positive rather than something to be intimidated by,” Sydney recalls. Her confidence was bolstered by sommelier and wine education through the Court of Master Sommeliers and the Vinica Education Society, plus a job at Marilena Cafe and Raw Bar in Victoria. Then, after trying Billy’s food in Vancouver, she found the missing piece. “Billy has a creative genius that he displays in the most approachable way.” His approach to cooking, a cultural fusion of French techniques with his British and Chinese-Vietnamese roots, was “boundary-pushing,” and “perfectly matched” to how she wants guests to experience wine. Billy’s flair for the comforting yet unconventional can be found in dishes like the popular lasagna with gochujang bolognese or pork and fermented mustard greens dumplings in a smooth sake cream sauce with chili and charred scallion oil and furikake. Billy’s creativity is further brought to life through his plating, influenced by his penchant for design. “I usually visualize what I want a dish to look like before I even create what the dish is. And then I start putting elements I know work together.” It took time for the chef to find a restaurant where he could truly be free to express his culinary ideas. Born and raised in London, he gained experience in West Coast, farm-to-table cooking and butchery once moving to Canada. Notably, he was the former sous-chef of acclaimed Asian-French fusion restaurant PiDGiN, which was, surprisingly, his first career foray into Asian cooking other than cooking at home with family. “I really discovered who I was as a chef when I started working there.” But it was Top Chef Canada and working with Sydney where he has found a new confidence in trusting his creativity and boundary pushing, he says. While Billy brings the whimsy, Sydney ensures it’s grounded in warmth and welcome. Her three-fold approach is to focus on “radical hospitality,” provide an approachable wine experience and provide an escape from the everyday. The wine program removes the “intimidation and pretentiousness” in approaching wine, she says, encouraging guests to explore at their own pace. Now that she deeply understands Billy’s style of cooking, she tailors her selections around what pairs best with his food. That mutual trust has resulted in something refreshingly different – playful food and wine served with an open-armed sense of welcome. “One of my goals for the restaurant is to truly become part of the fabric of the community,” Sydney says. “It should feel as essential as your neighbourhood grocery store.” To bring that vision to life, Rabbit Rabbit has started hosting Monday vinyl nights, curated by Jesse Owens of Hide and Seek Coffee. It’s an evening that caters to both industry friends and regulars, with an inexpensive “staff meal” feature (something “simple but comforting and delicious”) as well as drink specials and flights. “When guests come into Rabbit Rabbit, I want them to have a feeling akin to attending a dinner party at a close friend’s house,” Sydney says. The feedback so far suggests she’s succeeded. “The biggest validation came from my son, who’s 15. We all came in to celebrate one of my daughter’s birthdays, and he said, ‘Mom, your restaurant feels like Christmas.’ I nearly cried.” For the dynamic duo, it all comes back to a sense of wonder and welcome. “I don’t think people go out to dine for food. I think they go out to dine to experience something,” Sydney explains. “And the experience I want to give guests is one of being transported – of escape.”

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By Sam Duerksen

Sun, 30 Nov 2025 20:00:00 +0000
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