Kayaking on Denman and Hornby Islands

Nestled in the stunning Gulf Islands of British Columbia, Denman and Hornby Islands are a kayaker’s dream come true. With white sand beaches, lush forests ranging from arbutus and oak groves to coastal rainforests, and waters teeming with sea life, these islands offer paddling experiences that suit everyone from beginners to seasoned adventurers. Hornby Island, often called the “jewel of the Gulf Islands,” boasts diverse landscapes and warm swimming waters, while Denman provides serene coastal routes and charming village life.
Both islands are famous for their vibrant artistic communities, home to the highest number of artists per capita in Canada—especially known for their talented potters. Denman Village, the heart of Denman Island, welcomes visitors with its collection of shops, community halls, a library, a school, a post office, an art gallery, and a museum showcasing local works and the islands’ rich history.
Beyond kayaking, cycling is a fantastic way to explore the islands’ mostly paved roads. On Hornby, you can rent bikes at the Off Road Bicycle Shop next to the Co-op, making it easy to see more of the scenery on two wheels.
Whether you’re paddling past oyster beds, camping under towering Douglas firs, or spotting eagles overhead, Denman and Hornby promise unforgettable adventures. This guide covers everything you need to plan your trip, from getting there to launching your kayak and finding the perfect campsite.

From Victoria to Denman and Hornby Islands

Total Duration: 3 hours 35 minutes
Total Distance: 223 km
Route: Via Trans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 N and BC-19 N
Ferries: Two ferry crossings are required.
1. From Victoria: Take Government St to Trans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 N (4 minutes, 1.2 km).
2. Follow Trans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 N and BC-19 N to Fanny Bay, taking exit 101 (2 hours 19 minutes, 195 km).
3. Merge onto Buckley Bay Rd (2 minutes, 1.1 km).
4. Take the Buckley Bay to Denman Island ferry (25 minutes, 2.1 km).
5. (Follow Denman Rd and East Rd to the Denman Island - Hornby Island ferry (13 minutes, 11.4 km.
6. Take the Denman Island to Hornby Island ferry (25 minutes, 2.0 km).
7. (Continue on Shingle Spit Rd to your destination (14 minutes, 10.8 km.

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From Nanaimo to Denman and Hornby Islands

1. Drive North from Nanaimo: Start your trip in Nanaimo, a vibrant city on Vancouver Island. You’ll head north toward Buckley Bay, where the ferry to Denman Island departs. You have two driving options:
A. Highway 19 (Inland Highway): A faster, direct route that’s perfect if you want to save time. (Distance: About 75 km (47 miles), Travel Time: Roughly 1 hour).
Directions: From Nanaimo, take Third Street to merge onto BC-19 N. Follow it all the way to the Buckley Bay turnoff. B. Highway 19A (Oceanside Route): A scenic coastal drive through charming towns like Parksville, Qualicum Beach,

Bowser, Deep Bay, and Fanny Bay. (Distance: about 75 km (47 miles). Travel Time: Around 1 hour, though it may vary slightly with traffic or stops to enjoy the views.)
Directions: Head north from Nanaimo on Highway 19A, passing through the coastal communities until you reach the Buckley Bay turnoff.
Road Conditions: Both highways are well-maintained, but check for construction or delays, especially during busy summer months. Highway 19 is quicker, while 19A offers stunning ocean views—pick based on your mood!
2. Arrive at Buckley Bay Landmark: The Buckley Bay turnoff is just north of Fanny Bay, a small community along the route.
Directions: Whether you’re on Highway 19 or 19A, take the exit at Buckley Bay and follow the signs to the Denman-Hornby ferry terminal. From Highway 19, this is Exit 101, leading you onto Buckley Bay Road for about 1.1 km (2 minutes) to the dock. Tip: The terminal is easy to spot with clear signage, so you won’t miss it.
3. Ferry to Denman Island Ferry Details: Board the Buckley Bay, BC - Denman Island, BC ferry for a quick 10-minute ride across Baynes Sound to Denman Island.
Schedule: Ferries run hourly, but it’s smart to check the latest timetable on the BC Ferries website for exact times and any service updates.
Experience: The short crossing offers beautiful views of the coastal landscape—keep your camera ready! Travel Time: Including wait time, plan for about 25 minutes total from Buckley Bay to stepping onto Denman Island.
4. Continuing to Hornby Island (Optional): If Hornby Island is your final destination, here’s what to do next: From the Denman Island ferry terminal, drive along Denman Road and East Road to Gravelly Bay on the island’s eastern side. (Distance: About 11.4 km. Travel Time: 10-15 minutes).
Details: The drive is short and straightforward, passing through Denman’s quiet, rural charm. Catch the Denman Island, BC - Hornby Island, BC ferry from Gravelly Bay to Shingle Spit on Hornby Island. It’s another 10-minute ride. Check the BC Ferries website for current times, as departures align with the Buckley Bay ferry to minimize waits. Travel Time Including wait time, budget around 25 minutes for this leg. From Shingle Spit, follow Shingle Spit Road to your destination on Hornby Island. Distance: About 10.8 km. Travel Time: Roughly 14 minutes. Details: You’ll wind through Hornby’s laid-back island vibe to reach spots like Tribune Bay or Helliwell Provincial Park.

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Accommodations

Both islands offer cozy options for your stay:
Denman Island: Choose from resorts or charming bed & breakfasts (B&Bs).
Hornby Island: Relax at resorts catering to island visitors. For more details or to book, call Denman/Hornby Tourist Services at 250-335-1642.

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Kayaking Essentials

Before you hit the water, here’s what you need to know:
Tidal Reference Port: Point Atkinson is your go-to for tide planning.
Weather and Sea Conditions: Check references for Chrome Island and the Strait of Georgia to stay informed.
Prevailing Winds: Expect winds typically from the northwest or southeast.
Pack essential safety gear like personal flotation devices (PFDs), sprayskirts, pumps, whistles, paddlefloats, charts, and spare paddles. For longer trips, a VHF radio and GPS can be handy, though they’re not always necessary for shorter, easier paddles.

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Wildlife and Other Notes

While paddling around Hornby, you might hear about Virginia opossums, a non-native marsupial introduced over 20 years ago. These prolific breeders eat songbirds and small mammals and often rummage through garbage and compost piles. Described as “cute, cat-sized rats with long tails and sharp teeth,” they’re a quirky part of the island’s ecosystem—though not everyone finds them charming!

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Vancouver Island Activities

pender islands kayaking

Ready to paddle through paradise? The Pender Islands, nestled in British Columbia’s Gulf Islands, offer calm bays, rugged coastlines, and a rich history that make them a kayaker’s dream destination. Whether you’re a beginner exploring the gentle waters of Port Browning or an experienced paddler taking on a full circumnavigation of North or South Pender, this guide has you covered. Dive into the best launch sites, camping options, essential safety tips, and even a glimpse into the islands’ fascinating past. Ready to plan your kayaking trip to Pender Islands? Let’s get started!

Fisherman's Wharf Park Whale Watching

Due to certified whale watching agencies, Fisherman's Wharf Park is a significant place to visit for whale watching enthusiasts. As one of the most prodigious and phenomenal creators worldwide, whales are ample during specific whale watching seasons.

Camping in the Englishman River Falls Provincial Park Campground

Looking for a place you can camp within the area of a forest? You can find nowhere better than the Englishman River Falls Provincial Park Campground. The beautiful campsite is well maintained with tall trees and lovely views that you can hike while appreciating the incredible scenery. Camp lovers are provided with ample facilities and several outdoor activities.

French Beach Storm Watching

Write a page in your diary describing the great storm-watching experience you had on French Beach. The beach is sometimes foggy, which adds a sense of mystery, and when it clears up, the gorgeous beach will manifest itself. When the water lever dwindles in the distance, you can be a witness to great storms. The sound of waves hitting the pebbles is too comforting.

Ten Mile Point Diving

Even your imagination cannot give a preview of how beautiful Ten Mile Point Diving is. So, if you want to guarantee the immortality of your memories in this spectacular diving zone, do not forget o bring your cameras. The living species under these cold high-wave waters add up to the attractiveness of the diving adventure there.

Beechey Head Whale Watching

Beechey Head and its loop are two of the hot spots for whale watching in Sooke. In addition to fantastic opportunities for whale watching, Beechey Head is a hiking and nature trip location that offers you excellent activities, such as birdwatching.

Dolphin Beach Diving

Nanaimo is saturated with diving zones, but to name a decent one, Dolphin Beach is a location that allows everyone to explore marine life and enjoy diving. Both armature and advanced divers can have the chance to dive in these waters along with a glorious environment enclosing the zone, which would fascinate your eyes.

Nootka Island Surfing

Get out of your comfort zone and get away from the bustles in towns; Nootka Island has a lot to offer to make your vacation count. A place of amazement and glory, the waters of the most oversized island located off Vancouver Island give you a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for surfing. Nestled near Vancouver Island, Nootka Island features breathtaking scenery you can let your spirit feed on it.

Camping in Qualicum Bay Resort

As a popular destination for campers from Nanaimo or Courtenay, Qualicum Bay Resort is one of the best places for nature admirers. Amuse your eye with the beautiful scenic view of this campground located on a beautiful beach. You are provided with almost every kind of camping and incredible landscape for those in the RV campground.

Island View Beach Kiteboarding

Meet your inner kiteboarder while you are on Island View Beach. A beautiful sandy beach, offering undeniable opportunities for adventure. Kiteboarding facilities provided for you will fulfill your expectations. Moreover, abundant birds are observable, and you can enjoy several outdoor activities offered for you on this cute sandy beach.

Denman and Hornby Island Kayaking:

Sandy Island Marine Provincial Park-Denman Island

This marine park is a paradise for wildlife lovers, featuring Seal Islets and Sandy Island (also called Tree Island). It’s home to a large population of birds and butterflies, and at low tide year-round, you can walk from Denman to Sandy Island—a unique treat!
Difficulty: Novice
Travel Time: Full day to multiple days
Distance: 10 km (6.3 mi) one way from Denman ferry dock
Launch Sites:
1.Denman Ferry Dock (Vancouver Island side): A gravel beach where you can drive almost to the water’s edge, with plenty of long-term parking.
2.Fillongley Provincial Park: From the ferry terminal, head east on Denman Road, turn left onto Swan Road, then right onto Beadnell Road. 3.Mabel Road: A short road just southeast of Fillongley Park’s border.
Other Options: Union Bay (16 km/10 mi north of Fanny Bay on Highway 19A) or Scott and Chrisman Roads (long, steep trails off Northwest Road, west from the Denman ferry terminal).
Camping: Sandy Island offers walk-in campsites only, with no reservations required. Get more info at www.discovercamping.ca.
Warning: Watch out for combined wind and current in Lambert Channel between Hornby and Denman, which can make paddling trickier.

Fillongley Provincial Park Area-Denman Island

Little Tribune Bay and Tribune Bay-Hornby Island

Helliwell Provincial Park-Hornby Island

Camping on Hornby Island

Paddler’s Experience to Sandy Island and Fillongley

Our paddlers, shared their memorable trip to Denman, giving you a firsthand look at what to expect.

Outbound Journey:

Our paddlers launched from the Denman ferry dock at 4:30 p.m., timing it with the flood tide. Before setting off, they popped into Abraxas Books & Gifts in Denman Village. Paddling under the ferry wharf startled some pigeons, and a ferry worker checked their safety gear (PFDs, sprayskirts, pumps, whistles, paddlefloats, charts, spare paddles, VHF radio, and GPS—though the last two weren’t needed for this easy paddle). They glided past farmed oyster beds in shallow, calm water with plenty of beaches to land on. After rounding Denman Point, they hit headwinds and choppy seas, passing a coastline dotted with coves, some houses and farms, but mostly natural forest. The scenery was breathtaking, with snow on the mountains behind Union Bay even in mid-July. Near Henry Bay and Longbeak Point, the wind picked up, but the water stayed manageable. The final stretch to Sandy Island was slow going due to the wind, but they arrived to find an “incredibly beautiful” island bustling with other kayakers and a group of sea cadets from Comox, who were polite and entertaining. They saw bald eagles, marine birds (possibly Bonaparte’s gulls), and a small seal near the island. Our kayakers camped on a sandy site near driftwood furniture, and some even pitched their tents partly on the beach near a large Douglas fir, using a tarp for a sand-free spot.

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Camping on Sandy Island:

The campsite was huge, so the sea cadets’ chatter (quiet by 9:30 p.m.) didn’t disturb them. Sheltered from the wind, which seemed to die down at dusk, they fell asleep to the gentle lapping of waves, wondering if the cadets would wake them with a trumpet at 6 a.m. Instead, an eagle’s cry jolted them awake at 5 a.m., just 15 m (50 ft) above their tent. By 5:30, they’d heard more eagle cries, a squabble between the eagle and crows, and spotted a second eagle. Our kayakers grabbed their camera for a walk, snapping photos of the eagle’s white head glowing in the morning sun.

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Morning and Return Trip:

After breakfast at 7 a.m., they packed up, visited with neighboring kayakers, and waited as the rising tide nearly launched their boats for them. Paddling back, the wind was in their favor. They crossed to Longbeak Point, drifting past an eagle on a tall post in the sand and a hawk on a low rock at the water’s edge—smaller than a red-tailed hawk but not quite a northern goshawk or Cooper’s hawk, an unusual spot for such a bird. Near Denman Point, they misjudged a submerged sandbar and had to push their boats over it, but escaped with no serious scratches. With the wind at their backs and a minor current helping, the 10-km return took just 1 hour and 40 minutes—almost an hour faster than the trip out. They noted the 10-km distance as perfect for most paddlers, offering exercise without being too tough.

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Exploring Fillongley:

Back at the launch site, they loaded their boats onto their Toyota and drove across Denman to explore the northeast coast between Fillongley Provincial Park and Gravelly Bay ferry dock. They’d heard Lambert Channel could have current and wind funneling through, but this area was recommended for its shallow beaches and protection from southerly and westerly winds. Parking at Fillongley’s day-use lot, they ate a hearty lunch, launched from the park, and paddled the coast. The views toward the mainland and Hornby were scenic, though houses crowded the park’s southern boundary. Gary called it a “nice spot” and plans to return with family for more camping and kayaking.

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What you Can Expect to See Near

Tahsis

Tahsis is an accessway to many hiking trails. This village municipality is situated at the top of the steep-sided Tahsis Inlet and is surrounded by breathtaking wilderness and abundant wildlife. Some of the best water activities like ocean kayaking, surfing, windsurfing, recreational fishing or sport fishing, scuba diving, and kiteboarding are popular.

Sutton Range

The Sutton Range is a group of mountains and a subrange of the Vancouver Island Ranges that form the greater Insular Mountains. The amazing rock formation and alpine scale make the mountains within the range perfect for climbing. While you're atop Sutton Peak, Victoria Peak, Warden Peak, and mainland coast mountains are within your sight.

Sophia Range

The Sophia Range is a low small group of mountains on Nootka Island. Visiting the range would be fascinating overlooking inlets. The spectacular sights of the hills wrapped in trees ornamented with beautiful wildlife and birds are amazing while ascending. The range and the nearby park are a wealth of outdoor activities as paddling, fishing, and wildlife viewing.

Artlish Caves

As it is said, "A river cuts through rock, not because of its power, but because of its persistence." Did you know it takes a long process for a cave to be created? Artlish Caves is no exception. It is the largest active river cave in Canada, and the running water is why these series of caves were carved out from the ground, which is still happening. While you are inside the caves, sharpen your eyes to find bats, spiders, and other creatures in the darkness.

Coral Cave

If you desire to search for hidden parts of nature to discover exciting facts, Coral Cave is a suitable option. Before stepping into it, you need to have caving skills. The beauty of the cave is doubled by the stunning rainforest that surrounded the entrance. While you are inside, you may see the flooded parts of the cave. Let's get into it to find more and realize the time effect for thousands or millions of years.

Thanksgiving Cave

Devote more time, get a challenging goal for yourself, and pack your equipment. It is time to face the longest and deepest cave on Vancouver Island, Thanksgiving Cave. Caving inside this mostly tight and beautiful cave is not a beginner's suitable exploration, but for an expert caver, the adventurers' rush worth any trouble. If you are a beginner, don't worry. Tahsis is the caving capital of Canada, so you have different chances nearby.

Upana Caves

Going deep into the forest is worthy enough to visit the stunning Upana Caves. Listen to the sound of a river passing by and detect several entrances with the famous one behind the spectacular Upana Caves Waterfall. Inside entrances, you may find birds' nests. Watch the evidence of years of existence by holes like the one in cheese. The stunning galleries and passages you'll explore while going down would be incredible.

Genevieve Range

The Genevieve Range offers a fascinating tour within Nootka Island with spectacular sights for mountaineers. The range's area is a remote paradise for those seeking peace and seclusion. While ascending peaks, the range allows breath-taking sights of the ocean, enormous trees below your feet covering hills along with lakes and creeks dotted the area and plenty of wildlife.

Haihte Range

The Haihte Range overlooking Tahsis and Zeballos is home to some of the largest remaining glaciers on Vancouver Island. It experiences many cloudy days due to being close to the coast. The high terrain, including long aesthetic lines, is perfect for skiing at the lower glacier shelves, and visitors would enjoy excellent alpine climbing at jagged spires along the main ridge.

Best Time to Kayak Around Denman and Hornby Islands

This table reworks the original West Coast Trail table to reflect kayaking conditions around Denman and Hornby Islands.
Weather Conditions: Summer months (June-September) are the prime paddling season on Vancouver Island’s east coast, with July and August being the warmest and driest. May and September see more rain and cooler temperatures, consistent with the region’s climate.

Kayaking Accessibility: The book implies that Denman and Hornby’s routes, like Fillongley and Tribune Bay, are accessible year-round but optimal in summer due to calmer seas . Spring runoff and fall storms are inferred as potential challenges.

Considerations: Peak season aligns with tourism trends (July-August), increasing demand for resources. Shoulder months (May, September) offer solitude but require readiness for weather changes.

Month	Weather Conditions	Trail Accessibility	Considerations
May	Variable; cooler temperatures with increased rainfall.	Routes open; some areas may have stronger currents from spring runoff.	Less crowded; prepare for wet conditions and potential wind shifts.
June	Mild temperatures; moderate rainfall.	Most routes operational, with calmer waters in bays.	More kayakers arrive; moderate weather makes it a good balance of comfort and quiet.
July	Warmer temperatures; drier conditions.	All routes accessible, with calm seas in most areas.	Peak season; higher demand for rentals and tours—book early.
August	Warm temperatures; drier conditions.	All routes accessible; excellent for longer trips.	Peak season continues; plan for crowds and monitor afternoon winds.
September	Cooling temperatures; increased rainfall.	Routes open; early fall storms may affect outer areas.	Fewer paddlers; variable weather requires flexibility and preparation.

Month

Weather Conditions

Trail Accessibility

Considerations

May

Variable; cooler temperatures with increased rainfall.

Routes open; some areas may have stronger currents from spring runoff.

Less crowded; prepare for wet conditions and potential wind shifts.

June

Mild temperatures; moderate rainfall.

Most routes operational, with calmer waters in bays.

More kayakers arrive; moderate weather makes it a good balance of comfort and quiet.

July

Warmer temperatures; drier conditions.

All routes accessible, with calm seas in most areas.

Peak season; higher demand for rentals and tours—book early.

August

Warm temperatures; drier conditions.

All routes accessible; excellent for longer trips.

Peak season continues; plan for crowds and monitor afternoon winds.

September

Cooling temperatures; increased rainfall.

Routes open; early fall storms may affect outer areas.

Fewer paddlers; variable weather requires flexibility and preparation.

What is the best time of year to kayak around Denman and Hornby Islands?

The ideal time to kayak around Denman and Hornby Islands is during the summer months, from June to September, when weather conditions are mild, temperatures are warmer, and the seas are generally calmer. July and August are the peak months, offering the driest and warmest weather, which enhances visibility and comfort on the water. May and September are also viable, with fewer paddlers, though you’ll need to prepare for cooler temperatures and occasional rainfall. Always monitor marine weather forecasts, as winds can pick up, especially in exposed areas.