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Vanislander / Activities / Kayaking / Cortes Island Kayaking

Cortes Island Kayaking

Cortes Island, nestled in the northern reaches of the Strait of Georgia and the southern tip of Johnstone Strait, is a kayaker's paradise within the Discovery Islands group, alongside Quadra and Redonda islands. It serves as a gateway to the stunning Desolation Sound and is home to the Klahoose First Nation.

Getting to Cortes Island

To reach Cortes Island, you’ll need to take two ferry trips and drive across Quadra Island. Start in Campbell River, where you’ll hop on a 12-minute ferry ride to Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island. Once you’re on Quadra, drive to Heriot Bay on the east side—just follow the road signs. From Heriot Bay, catch the second ferry, a 45-minute crossing that lands you at Whaletown Bay on Cortes Island. You can usually grab an island map at the Campbell River ferry terminal, which will help you navigate once you arrive. When you get to Cortes, you’ve got options for where to stay. There’s a lodge, resorts, a motel, and several bed-and-breakfasts. If you need more info, call the visitor information line at 250-285-2724. For those who love camping, Smelt Bay Provincial Park is a great spot with 23 campsites. It’s located on Sutil Point Road, 15 km (9.3 miles) south of the Whaletown ferry terminal. To get there, follow Harbour Road from the ferry terminal to Carrington Bay Road and turn right. Then turn left onto Whaletown Road, go past the end of Gorge Harbour, and turn right onto Gorge Harbour Road. Next, turn right onto Seaford Road, follow it to Sutil Point Road, turn left, and head south to the park.

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General Kayaking Information

 Before you hit the water, here’s some key info to keep in mind. The Canadian Hydrographic Service (CHS) chart for this area is 3538-Desolation Sound and Sutil Channel. For tides, use Point Atkinson as your reference port, and add about 30 minutes if you’re paddling around the Von Donop Inlet area. To check weather and sea conditions, look at updates from Johnstone Strait and Cape Mudge Sentry Shoal. The prevailing winds here blow either southeast or northwest, depending on the weather system.

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Warnings to Watch Out For

Wildlife: Black bears and wolves live in some parts of the island, so be careful and know how to stay safe around them.
Tidal Currents: Watch out for strong tidal currents, especially in narrow spots.
Tidal Rapids: You’ll find rapids up to 8 knots at the entrances to saltwater lagoons in Von Donop Inlet, Carrington Bay, Mansons Landing, and Squirrel Cove. Timing is everything!
Southern Exposure: The southern half of Cortes faces the Strait of Georgia, where sea conditions can shift fast, and waves can grow big over long distances.
Oyster Industry: Oysters are the island’s top industry, so don’t leave human waste at or below the tide line to keep the waters clean.
Seal Pupping Areas: South Marina Reef and Sutil Point Reef are where seals have their pups—give them space. Oystercatcher Habitats: Three Islets, Little Rock, Central Rock, and North Powell Islets (east of Twin Islands in
 Desolation Sound) are marked as oystercatcher habitats. Don’t disturb these areas.
First Nations Land: Respect land marked I.R. (Indian Reserve) on charts. Don’t disturb these areas or any archeological sites.

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Vancouver Island Activities

Saxe Point Park Storm Watching

Saxe Point Park Storm Watching

Located in Victoria, Saxe Point Park has an area of Peninsula Seafront. Powerful barreling winds cause fierce waves to hit the coast during falls and winters, make Saxe Point Park a lovely place for Storm Watching. Witness the power of nature as waves crash into the beach with rain falling and the flashing sky making your soul stirred while enjoying Saxe Point Park Storm Watching.

Camping in Ford's Cove Marina

Camping in Ford's Cove Marina

Looking for a place on Hornby Island to stay the night while enjoying yourselves? You would better stop by camping in Ford's Cove Marina and camp with your RV or tent. This campground has cute oceanic views and glorious sunsets with gorgeous mountains. The Ford's Cove Marina Campground sites are charming, well-maintained, and spacious, with a pleasant grassy and treed atmosphere and beautiful scenery.

Port Renfrew Surfing

Port Renfrew Surfing

Take one step into the path of travelling, and next, you find yourself miles away from home. While you are exploring the adventure center of North America, do not forget to check out one of the world's most beautiful coastlines. Port Renfrew, aka The Jewel of the West Coast, is one of the hot spots for windsurfing and surfing. Enclosed by majestic mountains and trees, the town is where you can have fun doing recreational activities.

Camping in French Beach Provincial Park Campground

Camping in French Beach Provincial Park Campground

Within the territory of T'sou-ke first nation, French Beach Provincial Park Campground is a beautiful heavenly campground that allows you to record unforgettable memories. Call your dreams of camping a plane while camping in this campground; while it has ample facilities and incredible scenery, you cannot get enough of it.

Fair Harbour Kayaking

Fair Harbour Kayaking

Give rewards to yourself for working hard all week and plan to visit Fair Harbour to kill kayaking opportunities. Fair Harbour is an oceanic kayaking zone with all the necessary equipment to surf the water. Besides, you can find great recreational locations around and check all the activities on your to-do list.

Botanical Beach Storm Watching

Botanical Beach Storm Watching

Let the magnificent storms in Botanical Beach touch your souls. The fabulous beach known for its wonderful intertidal sea life has majestic waves during the windy seasons, making it a popular destination for those fond of storm watching. Try to visit this beach at low tide to enjoy seeing lovely sea-life creatures.

Camping in the Gordon Bay Campsite

Camping in the Gordon Bay Campsite

Choose wisely to make your stay on Vancouver Island unforgettable. Camping in the Gordon Bay Camp Site can give you the chance to have a retreat from daily bustles in a perfect and clean with a quiet atmosphere. It has a lovely swimming area surrounded by log booms in which you can bathe and relax for unnoticeable hours.

Vanislander

Clover Point Storm Watching

Clover Point Storm Watching

Just a short walk from Victoria, Clover Point is hit by great storms, and there are fabulous opportunities to watch roaring storms. During falls and winters, protect and enjoy the fierce waves making up in the distance, rolling into the coast, battering against the rocks, whether staying at your car or donning in raingear.

Browning Pass Diving

Browning Pass Diving

Make your diving experience memorable by going to the Browning Pass Diving zone. Browning Pass cold waters provide you with ample and undeniable opportunities to dive deep and observe the spectacular life under the surface. Comprising a rare beautiful nature, you can take images with an imaginary background.

Where to Kayak on Cortes Island

Squirrel Cove sits on the east side of Cortes, facing Desolation Sound and Lewis Channel. Boaters call it one of the prettiest anchorages on British Columbia’s West Coast, and it’s just as amazing for kayakers. The Klahoose First Nations village is about 0.75 km (0.5 miles) west of the dock. The community here has a general store with a liquor section and a walk-in cooler full of fruits and veggies, plus a restaurant and a craft store. At the craft store, you can find books by Gilean Douglas, a beloved Cortes author who passed away in 1993. Her book The Protected Place tells stories of life on the island.
Squirrel Cove is great for a fairly protected paddle and makes a perfect day trip. At the north end of the cove, past two islets, there’s a saltwater lagoon. At low tide, a waterfall flows over rocks at the entrance, but at high tide, the sea rushes in and out at speeds up to 10 knots. There’s also a trail from the cove to the head of Von Donop Inlet—look for the trailhead at the end of the most westerly finger of water or mud.
 
Difficulty Level: Novice to intermediate
Travel Time: Half a day or longer
Distance: From the boat ramp to the tip of Protection Island, it’s 1 km (0.6 miles)

Warnings:
Boater Traffic: Lots of boaters anchor north of Protection Island, usually entering via the northwest channel. You might want to paddle in through the southeast channel to avoid them.
Hiking Tides: If you’re hiking to Von Donop Inlet, check the tides or you’ll be carrying your kayak across a muddy flat.
Rapids: The lagoon rapids can hit 10 knots. If you try running them, you’ll zip through fast, hitting eddies and countercurrents before reaching calm water.
Slack Time: The slack period between Squirrel Cove and the lagoon lasts just 5 to 10 minutes. Mistime it, and you could be stuck for hours.

Getting There and Launching : To reach the launch site, follow Harbour Road from the ferry terminal to Carrington Bay Road and turn right. Follow Carrington Bay Road to Whaletown Road, turn left, then turn left again onto Gorge Harbour Road and continue to Squirrel Cove. Launch from the boat ramp between the craft shop and restaurant—no fee for kayakers!
Camping: Some kayakers and canoeists paddle into the lagoon and camp in a grassy meadow on the eastern shore.

Exploring Cortes Island: A Paddler’s Experience

Mansons Landing to Gorge Harbour

 Launching from the government dock at Mansons Landing, they paddled south to find the fish petroglyph, enjoying white sand beaches and clear waters teeming with sand dollars. Paul narrowly escaped a flood tide at Mansons Lagoon’s mouth with a quick paddle. The northern shore’s steep cliffs, adorned with arbutus and conifers, and granite-like boulders added drama to the journey. In Gorge Harbour, they searched for pictographs (best seen at slack high tide) and paddled 14-15 km (8-9 miles) counterclockwise, marveling at hidden homes before landing at Robertson Road beach.

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Von Donop-Ha’thayim Marine Provincial Park 

From Coulter Bay, they embarked on a three-day trip, paddling past Coulter Island and spotting Dall’s porpoises in Carrington Bay. At Von Donop Inlet, they lunched in a cove, explored caves used by First Nations as burial sites, and tackled the Reversing Rapids 90 minutes before high tide (2-3 knots). Camping on a grassy knoll southwest of the lagoon, they encountered wildlife—kingfishers, fish, and nighthawks—and hiked to Wiley Lake via a logging road from Black’s Bay. Their 24 km (14.9 miles) of paddling included porpoise sightings and a twilight mystery splash, ending with a swift return to Coulter Bay.

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What you Can Expect to See Near Cortes Island

Tahsis

Tahsis

Tahsis is an accessway to many hiking trails. This village municipality is situated at the top of the steep-sided Tahsis Inlet and is surrounded by breathtaking wilderness and abundant wildlife. Some of the best water activities like ocean kayaking, surfing, windsurfing, recreational fishing or sport fishing, scuba diving, and kiteboarding are popular.

Sutton Range

Sutton Range

The Sutton Range is a group of mountains and a subrange of the Vancouver Island Ranges that form the greater Insular Mountains. The amazing rock formation and alpine scale make the mountains within the range perfect for climbing. While you're atop Sutton Peak, Victoria Peak, Warden Peak, and mainland coast mountains are within your sight.

Sophia Range

Sophia Range

The Sophia Range is a low small group of mountains on Nootka Island. Visiting the range would be fascinating overlooking inlets. The spectacular sights of the hills wrapped in trees ornamented with beautiful wildlife and birds are amazing while ascending. The range and the nearby park are a wealth of outdoor activities as paddling, fishing, and wildlife viewing.

Artlish Caves

Artlish Caves

As it is said, "A river cuts through rock, not because of its power, but because of its persistence." Did you know it takes a long process for a cave to be created? Artlish Caves is no exception. It is the largest active river cave in Canada, and the running water is why these series of caves were carved out from the ground, which is still happening. While you are inside the caves, sharpen your eyes to find bats, spiders, and other creatures in the darkness.

Coral Cave

Coral Cave

If you desire to search for hidden parts of nature to discover exciting facts, Coral Cave is a suitable option. Before stepping into it, you need to have caving skills. The beauty of the cave is doubled by the stunning rainforest that surrounded the entrance. While you are inside, you may see the flooded parts of the cave. Let's get into it to find more and realize the time effect for thousands or millions of years.

Thanksgiving Cave

Thanksgiving Cave

Devote more time, get a challenging goal for yourself, and pack your equipment. It is time to face the longest and deepest cave on Vancouver Island, Thanksgiving Cave. Caving inside this mostly tight and beautiful cave is not a beginner's suitable exploration, but for an expert caver, the adventurers' rush worth any trouble. If you are a beginner, don't worry. Tahsis is the caving capital of Canada, so you have different chances nearby.

Upana Caves

Upana Caves

Going deep into the forest is worthy enough to visit the stunning Upana Caves. Listen to the sound of a river passing by and detect several entrances with the famous one behind the spectacular Upana Caves Waterfall. Inside entrances, you may find birds' nests. Watch the evidence of years of existence by holes like the one in cheese. The stunning galleries and passages you'll explore while going down would be incredible.

Genevieve Range

Genevieve Range

The Genevieve Range offers a fascinating tour within Nootka Island with spectacular sights for mountaineers. The range's area is a remote paradise for those seeking peace and seclusion. While ascending peaks, the range allows breath-taking sights of the ocean, enormous trees below your feet covering hills along with lakes and creeks dotted the area and plenty of wildlife.

Haihte Range

Haihte Range

The Haihte Range overlooking Tahsis and Zeballos is home to some of the largest remaining glaciers on Vancouver Island. It experiences many cloudy days due to being close to the coast. The high terrain, including long aesthetic lines, is perfect for skiing at the lower glacier shelves, and visitors would enjoy excellent alpine climbing at jagged spires along the main ridge.

Best Time to Visit Cortes Island

Planning your hike on Vancouver Island's West Coast Trail (WCT) requires careful consideration of seasonal conditions to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. Below is a detailed overview of the optimal times to visit, along with key factors to consider:

Month

Weather Conditions

Trail Accessibility

Considerations

May

Variable; cooler temperatures with increased rainfall.

Trail open; some campsites may be closed.

Less crowded; prepare for wet conditions.

June

Mild temperatures; moderate rainfall.

Trail open; most campsites operational.

Increasing number of hikers; moderate weather.

July

Warmer temperatures; drier conditions.

Trail open; all campsites operational.

Peak season; higher demand for permits.

August

Warm temperatures; drier conditions.

Trail open; all campsites operational.

Peak season; higher demand for permits.

September

Cooling temperatures; increased rainfall.

Trail open; some campsites may be closed.

Less crowded; prepare for variable weather.

Where to Kayak on Cortes Island

Cortes Island offers several prime kayaking destinations, each with distinct difficulty levels, travel times, and distances:
 Squirrel Cove: A novice to intermediate paddle with a lagoon accessible via strong rapids. The protected cove is ideal for beginners, but the rapids require timing with tides and currents.
Mansons Landing (including Smelt Bay Provincial Park and Gorge Harbour): Novice-friendly, though intermediate skills are needed at the lagoon and harbour entrances due to tidal currents (up to 4 knots).
Von Donop-Ha'thayim Marine Provincial Park: Intermediate for the paddle to the inlet, advancing to intermediate-to-advanced for navigating reversing rapids (up to 10 knots) into the lagoon.
Warnings: Check tide tables and plan for limited landing spots, especially between Carrington Bay and Von Donop Inlet.
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Alireza Moghimehfar

2025 February 19

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