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Vanislander / Activities / Kayaking / Cortes Island Kayaking

Cortes Island Kayaking

Cortes Island, nestled in the northern reaches of the Strait of Georgia and the southern tip of Johnstone Strait, is a kayaker's paradise within the Discovery Islands group, alongside Quadra and Redonda islands. It serves as a gateway to the stunning Desolation Sound and is home to the Klahoose First Nation.

Getting to Cortes Island

To reach Cortes Island, you’ll need to take two ferry trips and drive across Quadra Island. Start in Campbell River, where you’ll hop on a 12-minute ferry ride to Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island. Once you’re on Quadra, drive to Heriot Bay on the east side—just follow the road signs. From Heriot Bay, catch the second ferry, a 45-minute crossing that lands you at Whaletown Bay on Cortes Island. You can usually grab an island map at the Campbell River ferry terminal, which will help you navigate once you arrive. When you get to Cortes, you’ve got options for where to stay. There’s a lodge, resorts, a motel, and several bed-and-breakfasts. If you need more info, call the visitor information line at 250-285-2724. For those who love camping, Smelt Bay Provincial Park is a great spot with 23 campsites. It’s located on Sutil Point Road, 15 km (9.3 miles) south of the Whaletown ferry terminal. To get there, follow Harbour Road from the ferry terminal to Carrington Bay Road and turn right. Then turn left onto Whaletown Road, go past the end of Gorge Harbour, and turn right onto Gorge Harbour Road. Next, turn right onto Seaford Road, follow it to Sutil Point Road, turn left, and head south to the park.

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General Kayaking Information

 Before you hit the water, here’s some key info to keep in mind. The Canadian Hydrographic Service (CHS) chart for this area is 3538-Desolation Sound and Sutil Channel. For tides, use Point Atkinson as your reference port, and add about 30 minutes if you’re paddling around the Von Donop Inlet area. To check weather and sea conditions, look at updates from Johnstone Strait and Cape Mudge Sentry Shoal. The prevailing winds here blow either southeast or northwest, depending on the weather system.

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Warnings to Watch Out For

Wildlife: Black bears and wolves live in some parts of the island, so be careful and know how to stay safe around them.
Tidal Currents: Watch out for strong tidal currents, especially in narrow spots.
Tidal Rapids: You’ll find rapids up to 8 knots at the entrances to saltwater lagoons in Von Donop Inlet, Carrington Bay, Mansons Landing, and Squirrel Cove. Timing is everything!
Southern Exposure: The southern half of Cortes faces the Strait of Georgia, where sea conditions can shift fast, and waves can grow big over long distances.
Oyster Industry: Oysters are the island’s top industry, so don’t leave human waste at or below the tide line to keep the waters clean.
Seal Pupping Areas: South Marina Reef and Sutil Point Reef are where seals have their pups—give them space. Oystercatcher Habitats: Three Islets, Little Rock, Central Rock, and North Powell Islets (east of Twin Islands in
 Desolation Sound) are marked as oystercatcher habitats. Don’t disturb these areas.
First Nations Land: Respect land marked I.R. (Indian Reserve) on charts. Don’t disturb these areas or any archeological sites.

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Vancouver Island Activities

Camping in Puntledge RV Campground

Camping in Puntledge RV Campground

Nestled right in the territory of K’omoks First Nation, the Puntledge RV Campground offers you chances to camp next to a river with a mountain view as your backdrop, which makes it an ideal place to watch how the sun greets the mountains. You can enjoy camping with all facilities provided and no worries for the kids to get hurt. Also, a top-notch adventure is awaiting you.

Camping in Broughton Strait Campsite

Camping in Broughton Strait Campsite

On the edge of Port McNeill, a quiet facilitated campground is provided for you to spend splendid time with family and friends. The Broughton Strait Campground is a beautiful spot to spend moments and observe the magnificent wildlife while appreciating the beautiful nature there in the forest. Also, anglers would be surprised by the various fish species living there.

Camping in Croteau Lake Campsite

Camping in Croteau Lake Campsite

The Croteau Lake Campsite is the first backcountry group site accepting reservations, Located within Strathcona Provincial Park in Forbidden Platea. You will have to hike into this lovely remote campground which features a brand new yurt. Nestled in the sub-alpine of Strathcona, Croteau Lake Campsite is surrounded by jagging glacial mountain peaks, and you will experience a sense of peace and seclusion.

Marble River Canyon Kayaking

Marble River Canyon Kayaking

Marble River Canyon is one of Vancouver Island’s hidden treasures for kayakers—a rugged waterway defined by dramatic rock formations, secluded caves, and serene still waters. Nestled on the east side of the island near Quatsino and Coal Harbour, this canyon offers an unforgettable mix of white-water thrills, scenic tranquility, and rich natural history. In this guide, every detail—from access routes to on-water challenges—is laid out to help you plan a safe and exhilarating adventure.

Lake Helen Mackenzie and Battleship Lake Loop Hike

Lake Helen Mackenzie and Battleship Lake Loop Hike

Experienced and beginner hikers will be surprised hiking Lake Helen Mackenzie and Battleship Lake Loop with its stunning atmosphere in an alpine area and fantastic scenery. This trail includes well-kept facilities and a campground that make it suitable for all family members. Have a nice day-hike not to miss the attractions to see.

West Coast Trail

West Coast Trail

The West Coast Trail is a world-renowned multi-day backpacking trail, stretching 75 kilometers (47 miles) along the rugged southwestern coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. This iconic trail, often referred to as the 75-kilometer West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, winds through the wild beauty of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, offering hikers a challenging yet rewarding adventure. Known for its stunning scenery, historical significance, and unique features like wobbly ladders, cable cars, and tidal crossings, the West Coast Trail Vancouver Island BC spans a 48.3-mile point-to-point trail near Anacla 12, close to the Nitinaht village. Managed by Parks Canada, this legendary national park trail blends natural wonders with cultural insights tied to the Balaats’adt region.
Originally established in 1889 as a telegraph line connecting Victoria to Bamfield, the trail evolved into the Life Saving Trail following the tragic 1906 SS Valencia shipwreck, which earned the area the nickname "Graveyard of the Pacific." Today, it attracts adventurers with its dense forests, sandy beaches, and rocky shorelines, making it a top destination for hikers. With camping sites along the route and nearby accommodations like the West Coast Trail lodge in Port Renfrew or Bamfield, the trail caters to both seasoned trekkers and first-timers.

Hiking on the East Sooke Coast Trail

Hiking on the East Sooke Coast Trail

Hiking on the entire East Sooke Coastal Trail is an experience not to be missed! This beautiful trail is a mix of the fantastic coast and beautiful greenery. Hiking boots are required! The route takes you along bluffs and cliffs by the Pacific Ocean that worth it for the views. This well-marked trail can take full-day hiking in East Sooke Regional Park.

West Bay Esquimalt Whale Watching

West Bay Esquimalt Whale Watching

Featuring Victoria Harbour and West Bay, Esquimalt could be your starting point for whale watching in Victoria. You can also have the pleasure of watching sea lions, seals, porpoises, and a wide variety of marine birds are other stunning creators that may be highly admirable to wildlife watching fanatics.

Camping in Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park Campground

Camping in Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park Campground

Nothing can feed your spirit like a clean, relaxing vacation. To do so, you have fantastic chances to camp in Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park Campground and let your lungs to be flourished by the fresh air you let in. These oceanside campgrounds have a lot to offer: ample amenities, various wildlife and astonishing scenery. Camping at this campsite is something that happens once in a lifetime.

Ucluelet Whale Watching

Ucluelet Whale Watching

Make your Whale watching experience memorable enough to remember it even with closed eyes. in Ucluelet, you will have ample opportunities to encounter these gigantic marine creatures, and you may be lucky to observe other wildlife too. Those whale watching enthusiasts have the chance to attend the annual Pacific Rim Whale Festival happening at the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, Ucluelet and Tofino on Vancouver Island's west coast.

Where to Kayak on Cortes Island

Squirrel Cove sits on the east side of Cortes, facing Desolation Sound and Lewis Channel. Boaters call it one of the prettiest anchorages on British Columbia’s West Coast, and it’s just as amazing for kayakers. The Klahoose First Nations village is about 0.75 km (0.5 miles) west of the dock. The community here has a general store with a liquor section and a walk-in cooler full of fruits and veggies, plus a restaurant and a craft store. At the craft store, you can find books by Gilean Douglas, a beloved Cortes author who passed away in 1993. Her book The Protected Place tells stories of life on the island.
Squirrel Cove is great for a fairly protected paddle and makes a perfect day trip. At the north end of the cove, past two islets, there’s a saltwater lagoon. At low tide, a waterfall flows over rocks at the entrance, but at high tide, the sea rushes in and out at speeds up to 10 knots. There’s also a trail from the cove to the head of Von Donop Inlet—look for the trailhead at the end of the most westerly finger of water or mud.
 
Difficulty Level: Novice to intermediate
Travel Time: Half a day or longer
Distance: From the boat ramp to the tip of Protection Island, it’s 1 km (0.6 miles)

Warnings:
Boater Traffic: Lots of boaters anchor north of Protection Island, usually entering via the northwest channel. You might want to paddle in through the southeast channel to avoid them.
Hiking Tides: If you’re hiking to Von Donop Inlet, check the tides or you’ll be carrying your kayak across a muddy flat.
Rapids: The lagoon rapids can hit 10 knots. If you try running them, you’ll zip through fast, hitting eddies and countercurrents before reaching calm water.
Slack Time: The slack period between Squirrel Cove and the lagoon lasts just 5 to 10 minutes. Mistime it, and you could be stuck for hours.

Getting There and Launching : To reach the launch site, follow Harbour Road from the ferry terminal to Carrington Bay Road and turn right. Follow Carrington Bay Road to Whaletown Road, turn left, then turn left again onto Gorge Harbour Road and continue to Squirrel Cove. Launch from the boat ramp between the craft shop and restaurant—no fee for kayakers!
Camping: Some kayakers and canoeists paddle into the lagoon and camp in a grassy meadow on the eastern shore.

Exploring Cortes Island: A Paddler’s Experience

Mansons Landing to Gorge Harbour

 Launching from the government dock at Mansons Landing, they paddled south to find the fish petroglyph, enjoying white sand beaches and clear waters teeming with sand dollars. Paul narrowly escaped a flood tide at Mansons Lagoon’s mouth with a quick paddle. The northern shore’s steep cliffs, adorned with arbutus and conifers, and granite-like boulders added drama to the journey. In Gorge Harbour, they searched for pictographs (best seen at slack high tide) and paddled 14-15 km (8-9 miles) counterclockwise, marveling at hidden homes before landing at Robertson Road beach.

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Von Donop-Ha’thayim Marine Provincial Park 

From Coulter Bay, they embarked on a three-day trip, paddling past Coulter Island and spotting Dall’s porpoises in Carrington Bay. At Von Donop Inlet, they lunched in a cove, explored caves used by First Nations as burial sites, and tackled the Reversing Rapids 90 minutes before high tide (2-3 knots). Camping on a grassy knoll southwest of the lagoon, they encountered wildlife—kingfishers, fish, and nighthawks—and hiked to Wiley Lake via a logging road from Black’s Bay. Their 24 km (14.9 miles) of paddling included porpoise sightings and a twilight mystery splash, ending with a swift return to Coulter Bay.

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What you Can Expect to See Near Cortes Island

Tahsis

Tahsis

Tahsis is an accessway to many hiking trails. This village municipality is situated at the top of the steep-sided Tahsis Inlet and is surrounded by breathtaking wilderness and abundant wildlife. Some of the best water activities like ocean kayaking, surfing, windsurfing, recreational fishing or sport fishing, scuba diving, and kiteboarding are popular.

Sutton Range

Sutton Range

The Sutton Range is a group of mountains and a subrange of the Vancouver Island Ranges that form the greater Insular Mountains. The amazing rock formation and alpine scale make the mountains within the range perfect for climbing. While you're atop Sutton Peak, Victoria Peak, Warden Peak, and mainland coast mountains are within your sight.

Sophia Range

Sophia Range

The Sophia Range is a low small group of mountains on Nootka Island. Visiting the range would be fascinating overlooking inlets. The spectacular sights of the hills wrapped in trees ornamented with beautiful wildlife and birds are amazing while ascending. The range and the nearby park are a wealth of outdoor activities as paddling, fishing, and wildlife viewing.

Artlish Caves

Artlish Caves

As it is said, "A river cuts through rock, not because of its power, but because of its persistence." Did you know it takes a long process for a cave to be created? Artlish Caves is no exception. It is the largest active river cave in Canada, and the running water is why these series of caves were carved out from the ground, which is still happening. While you are inside the caves, sharpen your eyes to find bats, spiders, and other creatures in the darkness.

Coral Cave

Coral Cave

If you desire to search for hidden parts of nature to discover exciting facts, Coral Cave is a suitable option. Before stepping into it, you need to have caving skills. The beauty of the cave is doubled by the stunning rainforest that surrounded the entrance. While you are inside, you may see the flooded parts of the cave. Let's get into it to find more and realize the time effect for thousands or millions of years.

Thanksgiving Cave

Thanksgiving Cave

Devote more time, get a challenging goal for yourself, and pack your equipment. It is time to face the longest and deepest cave on Vancouver Island, Thanksgiving Cave. Caving inside this mostly tight and beautiful cave is not a beginner's suitable exploration, but for an expert caver, the adventurers' rush worth any trouble. If you are a beginner, don't worry. Tahsis is the caving capital of Canada, so you have different chances nearby.

Upana Caves

Upana Caves

Going deep into the forest is worthy enough to visit the stunning Upana Caves. Listen to the sound of a river passing by and detect several entrances with the famous one behind the spectacular Upana Caves Waterfall. Inside entrances, you may find birds' nests. Watch the evidence of years of existence by holes like the one in cheese. The stunning galleries and passages you'll explore while going down would be incredible.

Genevieve Range

Genevieve Range

The Genevieve Range offers a fascinating tour within Nootka Island with spectacular sights for mountaineers. The range's area is a remote paradise for those seeking peace and seclusion. While ascending peaks, the range allows breath-taking sights of the ocean, enormous trees below your feet covering hills along with lakes and creeks dotted the area and plenty of wildlife.

Haihte Range

Haihte Range

The Haihte Range overlooking Tahsis and Zeballos is home to some of the largest remaining glaciers on Vancouver Island. It experiences many cloudy days due to being close to the coast. The high terrain, including long aesthetic lines, is perfect for skiing at the lower glacier shelves, and visitors would enjoy excellent alpine climbing at jagged spires along the main ridge.

Best Time to Visit Cortes Island

Planning your hike on Vancouver Island's West Coast Trail (WCT) requires careful consideration of seasonal conditions to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. Below is a detailed overview of the optimal times to visit, along with key factors to consider:

Month

Weather Conditions

Trail Accessibility

Considerations

May

Variable; cooler temperatures with increased rainfall.

Trail open; some campsites may be closed.

Less crowded; prepare for wet conditions.

June

Mild temperatures; moderate rainfall.

Trail open; most campsites operational.

Increasing number of hikers; moderate weather.

July

Warmer temperatures; drier conditions.

Trail open; all campsites operational.

Peak season; higher demand for permits.

August

Warm temperatures; drier conditions.

Trail open; all campsites operational.

Peak season; higher demand for permits.

September

Cooling temperatures; increased rainfall.

Trail open; some campsites may be closed.

Less crowded; prepare for variable weather.

Where to Kayak on Cortes Island

Cortes Island offers several prime kayaking destinations, each with distinct difficulty levels, travel times, and distances:
 Squirrel Cove: A novice to intermediate paddle with a lagoon accessible via strong rapids. The protected cove is ideal for beginners, but the rapids require timing with tides and currents.
Mansons Landing (including Smelt Bay Provincial Park and Gorge Harbour): Novice-friendly, though intermediate skills are needed at the lagoon and harbour entrances due to tidal currents (up to 4 knots).
Von Donop-Ha'thayim Marine Provincial Park: Intermediate for the paddle to the inlet, advancing to intermediate-to-advanced for navigating reversing rapids (up to 10 knots) into the lagoon.
Warnings: Check tide tables and plan for limited landing spots, especially between Carrington Bay and Von Donop Inlet.
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Alireza Moghimehfar

2025 February 19

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